Altered Cd Swap – Completed

I posted earlier about the altered cd swap Im in, you can see the first post here:

For my next step for this project I took a tube of outliner paste normally used for glass painting, and I applied dots on one side of the snowflake and let it dry.

Next I coated both sides of the cd and snowflake with a layer of black gesso and let it dry.

Once dry I painted the entire thing on both sides using navy blue acrylic paint.

To add some distressing and texture for my next step I heated the cd and snowflake using my embossing gun, this make the paint bead up a little bit and also the liquid outliner bubbled too but I wanted it to do that 🙂

Once the cd was cool, I dipped my finger tips in metallic blue acrylic paint and smudged it over the snowflake to add highlights, I also repeated this step using a pearl turqouise paint and silver rub n buff. I just kept going till I liked how the snowflake looked.

I did this step on both sides of the cd.

Then I got my mini drill and drilled a little hole through the cd so I could make a hanger on it.

I then applied silver rub n buff to one side of the cd only and left the other side navy blue for contrast.

Once all the paint was dry I sprayed over the top using acrylic glaze to varnish it and then finally added some gold thread to act as a hanger.

Heres the pictures below of the final piece:

Altered Snowflake Cd

Close Up:
Altered Snowflake Cd - close up

Altered Snowflake Cd

Playing With Polymer Clay Brocades

Ive finally managed to sign up for my first swap of 2009!

This was for a mystery swap where initially we didnt know what we were all signing up for!  All was finally revealed and we found out for the swap we had to make something following these fab instructions for polymer clay brocades which Ms Adrienne ‘bossy boots’ had uploaded and shared on her blog:

I finally got round to playing and making my bits for this swap last night and took a couple of photos along the way to share my experience!

Polymer Clay Brocade First Steps:

1. You have to roll out a piece of polymer clay onto a ceramic tile using a roller – I didnt have neither of these so instead I used chopped up pieces of a black bin liner to work on and I improvised using a gluestick as my rolling pin for the clay.

The clay I used was fimo soft and I was surprised just how soft it was to work with, as you know I am always moaning about the pains in my hands and I didnt have any real issues working with this clay – happy days!

2. Once you’ve rolled out the clay you paint it with a few layers of metalic paint, for this I used my lumieres paints in bronze, gold and pearl white and also my stewart gill bright gold as I love that colour! You only need a tiny bit of paint and you apply it with your fingers.

3. Next stage is to stamp into the clay, I didnt wait till the paint had dried as Im impatient, I inked my stamps with versamark so that they wouldnt get stuck into the clay and could be removed easily and it seemed to do the trick.

4. You need 3 different colours of acrylic paints for the next stage, basically you rub the colours onto the clay to add highlights to the raised unstamped areas, less is more. My clay was still wet from the previous paint layers and this seemed to help the highlighting colours to blend onto the clay more freely I found.

The colours I used mainly for this stage where blue, pink, turquiose,green, yellow and purple.

Heres some photos of what my clay brocades looked like at this point:

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1

These 2 I did with Model Magic by Crayola just to see if it would work with air dry clay:

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1 - using model magic 2

Brocade Polymer Clay Stage 1 - using model magic

The instructions for this technique ask for black colour clay, I did use black but I also used some brown and some light blue clay I already had to see if you REALLY REALLY needed the black clay to make this technique work. As you can see from the photographs above, you DONT really need black clay because you cant really tell the difference once youve put all the layers of paint onto the clay.

Step 2:

Once youve painted, stamped and highlighted the clay you need to use cookie cutters or any type of cutters to make little shapes, I decided to go for geometric shapes with the intention of making mosiacs or something with them, heres a selection of the brocade shapes just prior to cooking them:

Brocade Polymer Clay Ready To Bake

Step 3:

To cook my clay I used my melting pot! Ive had this gadget for probably about 5 years or more and up till now I have NEVER used it! First time out! To cook the fimo I put the heat setting on the melt pot to 110, waiting till it was hot enough, then evenly spaced the clay directly onto the pan of the melting pot, placed the lid on and walked off and left them to cook for half an hour. Came back and they were ready! I repeated this step till Id cooked all my pieces.

By the end of it all I had a few little pieces left which didnt quite fill the melting pot pan, so I placed them on the pan anyway and unplugged the melting pot and just left them on there till the melting pot had totally cooled down – when I came to put the melting pot away I realised the fimo had totally cooked itself on the pot as it was cooling off! So I didnt need to waste any more electricity cooking the small lil pieces I had left over!

Heres some photos of my finished clay brocades, Ive not uploaded my model magic ones yet because they arent dry yet!

Finished Brocade Polymer Clay

Some Polymer Clay Brocade Close Ups:

Finished Brocade Polymer Clay Closeups

Finished Brocade Polymer Clay Closeups

Finished Brocade Polymer Clay Closeups

Watercolour Wash Backgrounds Part 2

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

Heres part 2 on watercolour backgrounds, this time I use ordinary water based pens and markers to create the washes with. You can use any brand of pen so long as it isnt permanent, as you can see from the photograph I used different brands all together to make these backgrounds with ranging from: crayola, marvy, adirondack pens, embossing pens and le plumes. Choose nice bright colours for this technique as they will be watered down with the water, so the stronger the colours – the more vibrant the end result.

See the step by step photos below for more details on how to make these backgrounds (click on the pictures if you require more detail)

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

Tip: You can vary the intensity of the backgrounds by using less or more water over the marker pen scribbles, experiment and see!

More Backgrounds Using This Technique:

Water Colour Wash Backgrounds
Water Colour Wash Backgrounds
Water Colour Wash Backgrounds

My Watercolor Crayons

Someone left me a blog post asking me how I keep my watercolour crayons sharp – this post made me smile because Ive never sharpened my crayons yet! To explain I took a quick photo of my tin containing my crayons so you can see for yourself why! You’ll need to click on the photo for a close up shot.


They do look in a bit of a sorry state dont they 🙂 But they work perfectly! I dont need to sharpen them because I tend to use them for creating washes on backgrounds and scribbling with. Sometimes I use the lid as my palette and scribble directly onto there and use a brush and water to lift the paint up, as you can see from the paint stains on my lid!

Does anyone have a photograph of a shabbier set of crayons to share?